By Nayera Yasser
Sitting in a front-row seat during one of his fashion shows, Murad Allam not only regards the garments walking down the runway. Instead, he spots opportunities and potentials for future projects and intense capitalisation.
Allam is a local businessman who truly believes in the current evolution of the local fashion industry. Therefore, he has founded Egypt’s most prominent integrated fashion-only magazine, modelling agency and fashion marketing consultancy, all under the name of “Fashion Zone”.
His work collectively pushes the industry as well as aspiring local designers towards an international level. Daily News Egypt met the leading businessman, to discuss the business aspect of fashion and the possibility of turning it into a national industry.
How do you perceive Cairo, as a fashion capital, compared to other capitals?
Honestly speaking, 20 years ago, Cairo was a fashion capital like Paris and London, and it was also better than regional fashion capitals. Yet, unfortunately the invasion of retail fashion in Egypt destroyed the local fashion industry. However, there has been an evident improvement since 2013. A lot of talented fresh designers have emerged lately, which is only natural as Egyptians are well known for their high creativity. Now in 2015, if we come to evaluate the past three years, we will find that we have reached a very good level. If we maintain this fast pace, I believe we would reach the same level as London and Paris, and we would even surpass regional capitals such as Dubai and Beirut. Also, the local market is still unstable, and its rules have not been set yet. Beirut’s market, for instance, is stable and the experts involved know their ground. We work in more difficult circumstances, yet we are able to deliver good outcomes. I believe the coming period will define the market’s characteristics, which should improve the level of fashion industry in Cairo.
What sort of aid can London or Paris provide to Cairo?
Most local designers are restricted budget-wise. Finances are always an issue to every local designer; to produce a decent collection, in terms of production and photography, puts a great financial burden on them. If the collection does not generate sufficient revenue and success, the designer might go out of business before actually starting. Abroad, especially in the US, it is quite well- known that fashion designers rarely ever work without the support of an investor or a business partner, who would invest in the designer and help him/her open branches around the world. Internationally speaking, the fashion industry is the second biggest business in the world right after arms dealing. Egyptian designers are in need of businessmen who are willing to support them, not in the forms of donations or loans, but as a true investment. Meanwhile, each designer is required to provide an accurate business plan that would assure the investor that this project has sufficient potential. Yet, before money we need proper education; we need cultural and intellectual aid.
What names come to mind when thinking of European entities that can provide good aid to Cairo?
The European Industries Alliance could be a great supporter for the local industry. Also, I am not sure if it is possible, but international fashion houses could provide great aid as well by recruiting young designers. Big names can’t strongly support young names; yet, I believe there could be various ways of collaboration.
You are currently working on creating a designer league in Egypt. Would you seek sponsorship from any European fashion council?
I have shared the idea of a league online, and it was met with positive feedback from a lot of people, and many have even contacted me in support. Nonetheless, I have rethought it, because if I create a league now while a lot of designers are not academically ready, it would automatically turn into a complaining centre; all those who would come to me would just be complaining about the market’s shortage. They would complain about the lack of workers or low sales, because they still need a lot.
So instead we, Fashion Zone, decided to arrange a seminar at the end of September. We have invited many fashion designers to come and attend educational workshops, so that when the time comes and the league becomes established, the designers would be academically qualified. This would make the league a place that serves them and adds to their work, not just a complaint centre; because all designers basically complain about the same points. I receive the average of six phone calls from designers every day. One of the main points is the lack of workers and constant misunderstandings with them. This is basically a result of the fact that many designers do not know how to cut or sew properly, so workers do not follow their vision and end up drifting from the essential design because they do not trust the designers’ technical knowledge. We have already contacted several prominent regional and international entities to support the league. A well-known British entity has already shown great interest, and we shall announce the exact details as soon as we set the agreement by the beginning of 2016.
In reference to the upcoming Euromoney conference, do you think fashion should be included in the investments agenda?
Definitely, the local industry has reached this level of maturity. If we assume that we have 250 designers in Egypt, 25 of them deserve this support and recognition.
What sort of fashion projects would you love to see proposed?
We need proper support and professional runway shows in coordination with the international industry. We need to create a healthy and professional industry, unlike the current misjudged one, which deems designers as spoiled people with extra money and time to pursue a meaningless hobby. Society does not understand that designers are just as important as doctors, lawyers and accountants and they need to practice their work and generate income in order to continue their business. Foreign countries and authorities have to perceive us in that fashion. Choose a qualified designer and embrace him/her; invest in them and work on capitalising their work internationally. If you visit any shopping mall in Egypt, you will come across hundreds of foreign names, 20 of them are well established names while many more are just local brands that came from far and disconnected countries. These brands were once restricted to their countries until a proper investor, who believed in them, got them all the way to Egypt.
Several local designers have already showcased their work in European countries, such as Sara Hegazy, who was the first Egyptian designer to cross boarders and she was highly celebrated in London. Farida Temraz sold her entire collection after participating in Paris Fashion Week, which proved that she is on the right track. Also, next week Norine Farah and Rana Madkour will showcase their new collections in New York. There are a lot of local talents who are heading in the right direction with great potential; yet, they need sufficient support.
