The empire of rice and lentils

Ahmed Maged
6 Min Read

Abou Tarek, now a three-storey Koshari outlet, is promising to expand to become the biggest in the country

CAIRO: In a period of time in which news of fast gain and the romps to power abound, stories of the struggle from rags to riches are bound to be a rarity.

But for Abou Tarek, also known as Hassan Yousif, a one-time Koshari stall owner, emerging from the angst of poverty to accumulate the wealth of power and popularity is no small feat but rather the definition of one Egyptian man’s determination to overcome.

And that stall is now the largest Koshari restaurant in Cairo.

To call it the biggest might do it little justice, for Abou Tarek’s, located on Champollion Street, is now boasting a three-storey Koshari eatery that looks set to expand to become a true Koshari Empire in the near future.

But Tarek Yousif, the eldest son of Hassan Yousif, remains coy to reveal , perhaps for fear of the evil eye, that another two floors could sooner or later operate to turn Abou Tarek’s into a five-storey Koshari dealer, a development that has never come about in the history of all Koshari shops in Egypt.

But that isn’t all, for Abou Tarek’s is the first to set up a website in both Arabic and English enabling foreigners to get a glimpse into that Egyptian delicacy. It has been accessed by 138,000 web users so far.

It is perhaps the only Koshari shop where you can pay your bill using a Visa card. It is also the only one that has received media coverage by reputed TV satellite channels like MBC and Al Arabiya and Dream.

It might also figure as one of the fewest frequented by tourists of all types as well as by celebrities and other dignitaries.

But what is the secret of all this success?

“It is dedication to our profession, answers Tarek.

“This is the profession of my father and grandfather . prices of our items might go up and down but we never compromise on quality and this how we have managed to stand out.

When demand at Abou Tarek’s increased, the managers had to keep visitors on a waiting list because no space was available in their two-storey shop.

It was also inappropriate to politely dismiss them by offering takeaway meals because the majority would come to enjoy the ambiance.

“We were left with no option other than building a third floor, noted Tarek.

“We started the third floor restaurant only a few days ago. It’s a hall that is centred by a fountain and has panoramic view of the town, informed Tarek.

“As for the other two floors, we haven’t decided on them as yet. Future plans will be mapped out after we see how the new the third floor will fare. But again whether we build five or ten floors we will sell Koshari and only Koshari.

It is rare dedication, for when many other popular outlets tried to capitalize on their delicacies – be it Koshari or Kebab – by serving additional fast meals like pizza and falfel, Abou Tarek has remained staunch to Koshari and tips on how to improve the dish.

“Yes we serve sweets like Mahalabiya, noted Tarek, “but this is because people like to have a dessert. My father has even refused to set up other branches in Saudi Arabia or Dubai despite the luring deals. This is because once you do that you will commercialize your name but many branches will simply translate into losing control over quality.

“The Arab eaters will immediately feel it and you will end up as a name without matter. You’ll fail to stand up to your reputation. A first time foreign visitor might fail to have any say, but once he tastes it elsewhere he will start to compare and judge.

Forget about the branches, but isn’t a real challenge to run a three-floor outlet that is promising to expand?

“It is, owns Tarek. “But so far the business is being run through a central kitchen that caters to all the three floors.

Each floor is appointed a separate cashier. Tarek works the till at the second floor cashier and manages the operation there while his two brothers are similarly in charge of the first and third floors.

In essence, each floor is being virtually managed as a separate restaurant.

Hassan Yousif started his business in the 1980s on a Koshari stall that he used to set it up in the same street before a coffee shop that has been replaced by his gigantic business. After he managed to make some savings he bought half the café and some time later it all became his.

And the rest, as the saying goes, is history.

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